The neighbourhood at a glance
Old Nice is the city from before the palace hotels. Its narrow lanes, ochre and red façades with green shutters and washing hung from the windows are a reminder that Nice long looked towards Italy: it has only been French since 1860.
You explore it on foot, and that is the charm. Don't hunt for the perfect route: get a little lost and you will always land on a square.
What to see
Cours Saleya
The neighbourhood's long main square hosts the flower and produce market every morning except Monday, when it becomes a flea market. In the evening the café terraces take over.
Sainte-Réparate Cathedral
On Place Rossetti, this baroque cathedral is easy to spot thanks to its dome covered in colourful glazed tiles. The square itself, with its terraces and ice-cream shops, is the heart of the old town.
Palais Lascaris
A 17th-century aristocratic palace on Rue Droite, now a museum. It is known for its large collection of musical instruments.
Castle Hill
Allow about 15 minutes' climb from Old Nice (there is also a lift on the sea side). Almost nothing remains of the castle, but the view over the Baie des Anges and the Promenade des Anglais is the best in the city. A waterfall and shady gardens make it a pleasant break.
Where to eat Niçois food
Niçois cooking is simple and sunny: vegetables, olive oil, chickpeas, anchovies. Here are the dishes to know, then the addresses.
- Socca: a chickpea pancake baked in a wood-fired oven, crisp outside and soft inside.
- Pissaladière: a slow-cooked onion tart topped with anchovies and black olives.
- Pan bagnat: Nice's round sandwich with tuna, raw vegetables and olive oil.
- Farcis niçois: small stuffed vegetables (tomatoes, courgettes, onions) baked in the oven.
Quick bites
- Chez René Socca: the most famous place for socca, at the northern entrance to Old Nice on Rue Pairolière. Order at the counter, eat on the terrace. Very low prices.
- Lou Pilha Leva: in the lanes, an institution for socca, pissaladière and pan bagnat.
- Chez Thérésa: the historic stall on the Cours Saleya, at the market since 1925.
Sit-down meals
- Chez Palmyre (Rue Droite): a small room, home-style Niçois cooking, a neighbourhood-canteen feel.
- La Merenda: a tiny institution that takes no bookings. Arrive at opening time.
Opening hours and payment methods change often in these small places, and some take cash only: check before you go.
Where to stay near Old Nice
Staying in or next to the old town lets you enjoy the market early and the terraces at night.
Hôtel La Pérouse
Built into the rock between Old Nice and the sea, with a view over the whole bay.
Hôtel Villa La Tour
A small hotel right in the lanes, handy for living the neighbourhood from morning to night.
Hyatt Regency Nice Palais de la Méditerranée
Big-hotel comfort with Old Nice about 10 minutes away on foot.
Affiliate links: if you book, we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Our one-day itinerary
- 9 am: Cours Saleya market, with a slice of socca at Chez Thérésa.
- 10:30 am: the lanes, Place Rossetti and Sainte-Réparate Cathedral.
- 12:30 pm: a Niçois lunch in a small local restaurant.
- 3 pm: climb Castle Hill for the view.
- 6 pm: head down to the sea and stroll the Promenade to Le Negresco.
Frequently asked questions
What is socca?
Socca is a large, thin pancake made from chickpea flour, olive oil and water, baked in a wood-fired oven and served hot with black pepper. It is Nice's most famous street food, and it is naturally vegan and gluten-free.
Where can you eat socca in Old Nice?
The best-known spots are Chez René Socca at the northern entrance to the old town, Lou Pilha Leva in the lanes, and the Chez Thérésa stall on the Cours Saleya market, there since 1925. Chez Pipo, another institution since 1923, is near the port.
When is the Cours Saleya market?
The flower and produce market runs in the mornings, Tuesday to Sunday. On Mondays it becomes a flea market. Go before 11 am for the atmosphere and the best produce.
Do you need to book restaurants in Old Nice?
Not for street food (socca, pan bagnat). For the small Niçois restaurants, often tiny, booking is wise in the evening and in high season. Some don't take bookings at all: arrive at opening time.
